How to Make Dress Patterns

Designing and drafting your own dress patterns is an invaluable skill for sewing enthusiasts and aspiring fashion designers. It enables you to create garments tailored perfectly to your body and personal style.

Whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your skills, this guide will help you master the process of making dress patterns.

Essential Tools and Materials

Before you begin, ensure you have the following tools and materials:

Pattern paper or large sheets of kraft paper
Measuring tape
Rulers (a straight ruler and a French curve or hip curve for curved lines)
Pencil or fabric chalk
Paper and fabric scissors
Eraser
Pins (optional, for securing patterns to fabric)

Step 1: Gather Accurate Measurements

To draft a well-fitting dress pattern, precise body measurements are crucial. Measure and record the following:

Bust: Around the fullest part of your chest.
Waist: Around the narrowest part of your waistline.
Hips: Around the widest part of your hips.
Shoulder to Bust: From the top of your shoulder to the fullest part of your bust.
Shoulder to Waist: From your shoulder to your natural waistline.
Waist to Hem: From your waist to the desired length of the dress.

Double-check your measurements to ensure accuracy.

Step 2: Select a Dress Style

Decide on the style of dress you want to create. Common options include:

A-line dresses
Sheath dresses
Wrap dresses
Fit-and-flare dresses

Your choice will influence the shape and details of your pattern.

Step 3: Draft the Basic Bodice Block

A bodice block serves as the foundation for most dress designs. Follow these steps to create one:

Draw a Vertical Guide Line: On your pattern paper, draw a vertical line equivalent to your shoulder-to-waist measurement. This represents the center front or back.
Mark Key Points: Measure down from the top to mark the shoulder-to-bust measurement. Draw a horizontal line here for the bust.
Add Horizontal Lines: Use your bust, waist, and hip measurements (divided by 4 for one-quarter of the body) to draw horizontal lines at their respective levels.
Shape the Bodice: Use a ruler and a French curve to connect the bust, waist, and hip points smoothly. Include darts as needed for a snug fit.

Step 4: Create the Skirt Block

To draft the skirt portion:

Determine Length: Use the waist-to-hem measurement to decide the skirt length.
Draw the Waistline: Begin with a horizontal line for the waist.
Mark the Hip Line: Position the hip line 7-9 inches below the waistline.
Shape the Skirt: Connect the waist and hemline, flaring outward for an A-line skirt or keeping it straight for a sheath design.

Step 5: Merge the Bodice and Skirt

Align the bodice and skirt blocks at the waistline to form a complete dress pattern. Make adjustments for a seamless connection between the two sections.

Step 6: Add Seam Allowances

Remember to include seam allowances (typically 1/2 inch or 1.5 cm) around the edges of all pattern pieces.

This ensures enough space for sewing the pieces together without altering the intended size of the garment.

Step 7: Test the Pattern

Before cutting into your final fabric, test your pattern by sewing a mock-up (also known as a toile or muslin) using inexpensive fabric. This step allows you to verify the fit and make any necessary modifications.

Step 8: Cut and Assemble the Dress

Once you’re satisfied with your pattern, pin it to your fabric and cut out the pieces. Follow the specific sewing instructions for your chosen design to assemble the dress.

Tips for Success

Start with Simple Designs: If you’re a beginner, begin with basic styles to build confidence and skill.
Use Pre-Made Blocks: Consider using pre-made bodice or skirt blocks as a starting point to simplify the drafting process.
Practice Regularly: The more you practice, the more precise and creative you will become.
Keep a Pattern Journal: Record measurements, adjustments, and notes for future reference.

By following these steps, you can create dress patterns that are uniquely tailored to your preferences. Pattern-making is a rewarding skill that grows with practice, so enjoy the journey and let your creativity shine!